The New York issue, October 2026
New York
New York is a city defined by its relentless friction and vertical ambition.
Plan your New York trip
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Guests & rooms
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The New York reading list
All 24 New York stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Marble, Whispers and Bus Tours at Grand Central in September
An honest look at what Grand Central Terminal actually gives you in September 2026: the marble, the backwards ceiling, the whispering arch, the weekday-only Oyster Bar and exactly where the open-top buses pick up outside.
Femi Adeyemi
Tours and tickets
New York's Greenwich Village by Open-Top Bus, September 2026
What the Downtown loop shows you of the Village, where to get off and walk, and how to spend the hours the bus can't reach.
Femi Adeyemi
Where to Stand and Eat on 2026 New York Marathon Weekend
A three-day plan for the 2026 TCS New York City Marathon: where to collect a bib, the kerbs worth standing on across all five boroughs, and the tables to book before the roads close.
Femi Adeyemi
Planning a First New York Trip Around October's Calendar
October is two different trips in one month, and the half you book decides your foliage, your hotel rate, and whether Midtown has a room left for you.
Femi Adeyemi
New York for the First Time Without Racing the Map
A first-timer's plan built around one part of town a day, with real prices, booking windows and the walks that stitch the sights together.
Femi Adeyemi
More from the New York issue
New York Museum Shows Worth Building an Autumn Trip Around
Femi Adeyemi
Planning Ten November Nights Around New York's Comedy Festival
Femi Adeyemi
Getting Inside New York During Open House Weekend
Femi Adeyemi
The Borough That Invented the Bridge: A Walking Guide to the Brooklyn Bridge and the Neighborhoods It Changed
Femi Adeyemi
The Gilded Age Mansions Still Standing on Fifth Avenue
Femi Adeyemi
Eating Cheap and Well Around New York's Food and Wine Festival
Émilie Rousseau
New York's Village Halloween Parade Welcomes Anyone in Costume
Femi Adeyemi
Tours and tickets
Open-Top Buses Through New York's Cast-Iron SoHo in September
Femi Adeyemi
The Rockaways in Summer: New York City's Wild Beach at the End of the A Train
Femi Adeyemi
The High Line's Quiet Cousins: New York's Hidden Gardens and the Green Spaces Tourists Never Find
Femi Adeyemi
The Last Diners of New York: Chrome, Coffee and the Counter That Won't Quit
Femi Adeyemi
Tours and tickets
Walking New York's Chinatown Street by Street in October
Femi Adeyemi
Tours and tickets
November on the Brooklyn Heights Promenade in New York
Femi Adeyemi
New York Runs on a 5 A.M. Shift Nobody Advertises
Émilie Rousseau
The Coopers Who Still Build New York's Rooftop Water Tanks
Femi Adeyemi
Riding the Staten Island Ferry Before New York Wakes Up
Femi Adeyemi
Red Hook's Cargo Piers Became Brooklyn's Art District
Femi Adeyemi
The Counter That Never Closes: Inside New York's Bodega Culture
Femi Adeyemi
How New Yorkers Really Live Above the 20th Floor
Femi Adeyemi
An insider’s read on New York
From its origins as a Dutch trading outpost to its rise as a global financial engine, the city has always prioritized commerce and reinvention. Its character is unsentimental and pragmatic, shaped by successive waves of immigration that have left distinct cultural layers across the boroughs. It is a place that does not coddle visitors; instead, it invites them to adapt to its speed, rewarding those who move with purpose and observe the unspoken social contracts of the sidewalk.
Space is the ultimate luxury here, and every square foot is contested and optimized.
From our New York guide
Nine neighbourhoods, nine ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
West Village
Romantics and architecture enthusiasts. The trade-off is tiny hotel rooms and high prices.
Quiet, tree-lined streets with historic brownstones, angled off the main Manhattan grid.
Where to stay High-end boutique hotels or historic townhouses converted into guesthouses.
Stay in West Village
Lower East Side
Night owls and vintage shoppers. The trade-off is late-night street noise and crowded sidewalks on weekends.
Gritty, historic tenement blocks transitioning into a dense nightlife and dining hub.
Where to stay Trendy high-rise boutique hotels with rooftop bars.
Stay in Lower East Side
Williamsburg
Shoppers and craft beer enthusiasts. The trade-off is relying on the L train for Manhattan access.
Industrial-chic Brooklyn neighborhood with a prominent creative class and skyline views.
Where to stay Converted factory hotels along the East River waterfront.
Stay in Williamsburg
Midtown East & West
First-time visitors who want to walk to major sights. The trade-off is intense crowds and a lack of neighborhood feel.
High-rise commercial district dominated by corporate headquarters, theaters, and major landmarks.
Where to stay Large business hotels and luxury high-rises.
Stay in Midtown East & West
Upper West Side
Families and museum-goers. The trade-off is a quieter, less adventurous nightlife scene.
Residential, family-friendly enclave bordered by Central Park and Riverside Park.
Where to stay Classic pre-war hotels and residential apartment rentals.
Stay in Upper West Side
DUMBO
Photographers and design lovers. The trade-off is heavy daytime tourist crowds.
Cobblestone streets and converted brick warehouses directly beneath the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges.
Where to stay Eco-luxury waterfront hotels.
Stay in DUMBO
Harlem
Culture seekers and music lovers. The trade-off is a longer commute to Lower Manhattan.
Rich cultural hub with historic brownstones, active street life, and deep musical roots.
Where to stay Historic brownstone bed-and-breakfasts.
Stay in Harlem
Astoria
Food travelers and budget-conscious visitors. The trade-off is a 30-minute subway ride to Manhattan.
Diverse, low-rise Queens neighborhood with a relaxed pace and exceptional international dining.
Where to stay Budget-friendly chain hotels and local guesthouses.
Stay in Astoria
Financial District
History buffs and business travelers. The trade-off is that it can feel sterile and quiet on weekends.
Narrow, historic canyons of lower Manhattan that transition from busy business hub to quiet residential streets.
Where to stay Modern business hotels and historic conversions.
Stay in Financial DistrictBook before you land
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The New York guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Le Bernardin
Unrivaled precision in French seafood preparation under chef Eric Ripert.
Signature: Pounded yellowfin tuna with foie gras and toasted baguette
Grand Central Oyster Bar
Historic vaulted tile ceilings and an extensive daily selection of fresh oysters.
Signature: Oyster Pan Roast
Dame
Elevated British seafood classics served in an intimate, highly sought-after space.
Signature: Fish and chips with exceptionally crispy batter
Cervo's
Iberian-influenced seafood focusing on sustainable local catches and natural wines.
Signature: Crispy shrimp heads with garlic and piri piri
Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.
Part fishmonger, part casual counter serving sustainably sourced local seafood.
Signature: Baja fish tacos
Astoria Seafood
A fish market where you choose your raw seafood and have it grilled or fried on the spot.
Signature: Grilled octopus with lemon and olive oil
The Fulton
Waterfront dining with dramatic views of the Brooklyn Bridge and refined seafood dishes.
Signature: Warm octopus carpaccio
Lure Fishbar
Sleek, yacht-like subterranean dining room serving high-quality sushi and raw bar items.
Signature: Lure Style Burger topped with bacon jam
Peter Luger
The definitive Brooklyn steakhouse, serving dry-aged beef on sizzling platters since 1887.
Signature: Porterhouse steak for two
Keens Steakhouse
Historic dining room featuring clay pipes on the ceiling and exceptional dry-aged meats.
Signature: Legendary mutton chop
Cote Korean Steakhouse
High-energy fusion of a classic American steakhouse and Korean barbecue with smokeless grills.
Signature: The Butcher's Feast
Minetta Tavern
Historic Parisian-style tavern serving some of the city's most celebrated beef blends.
Signature: Black Label Burger with caramelized onions
St. Anselm
No-nonsense, tavern-style grill focusing on alternative cuts of meat cooked over open flames.
Signature: Butchers steak with garlic butter
Gage & Tollner
Meticulously restored Gilded Age dining room serving classic chophouse fare.
Signature: Ribeye steak with bone marrow butter
Hawksmoor NYC
Set in a stunning historic assembly hall, serving perfectly charred charcoal-grilled steaks.
Signature: T-bone steak cooked over real charcoal
Gallaghers Steakhouse
Features a glass-fronted meat-aging room visible from the street and hickory-coal grills.
Signature: Dry-aged ribeye steak
Bowery Meat Company
A modern, design-forward steakhouse with a diverse menu of creative beef preparations.
Signature: Bowery Steak with salsa verde
Katz's Delicatessen
The legendary home of hand-carved, slow-cured pastrami served in a cavernous, historic hall.
Signature: Pastrami on rye with mustard
Russ & Daughters Cafe
Sit-down outpost of the historic appetizing shop, serving exceptional smoked fish and bagels.
Signature: The Classic Board with gaspe nova smoked salmon
Joe's Pizza
The gold standard for a classic, thin-crust New York street slice.
Signature: Plain cheese slice
L'Industrie Pizzeria
Combining classic New York style with Italian ingredients and long-fermentation dough.
Signature: Burrata slice with hot honey
Barney Greengrass
A century-old institution specializing in smoked sturgeon and traditional Jewish deli fare.
Signature: Sturgeon scrambled eggs with onions
John's of Bleecker Street
Historic coal-fired brick oven pizzeria serving whole pies only in a no-frills setting.
Signature: The 'Boom Pie' with mushrooms and pepperoni
Scarr's Pizza
Milling their own grain in-house to create an exceptionally flavorful, retro-style slice.
Signature: Sicilian slice
S&P Lunch
A revived historic soda fountain serving classic New York lunch counter staples.
Signature: Tuna melt on rye
Nathan's Famous
The historic birthplace of the American hot dog, operating since 1916 near the boardwalk.
Signature: Beef hot dog with mustard and sauerkraut
Eleven Madison Park
A completely plant-based tasting menu served in a soaring Art Deco dining room.
Signature: Seasonal plant-based tasting menu
Per Se
Thomas Keller's refined French-American tasting menus overlooking Central Park.
Signature: Oysters and Pearls
Atomix
Highly innovative, educational Korean tasting menu served at an intimate chef's counter.
Signature: Multi-course Korean tasting menu
The Modern
Refined contemporary cooking served in a bright dining room overlooking the MoMA sculpture garden.
Signature: Eggs on Eggs on Eggs
Balthazar
The definitive French brasserie experience, bustling with energy and classic design details.
Signature: Steak frites
Le Coucou
Elegant, romantic dining room serving grand, traditional French cuisine.
Signature: Tout le Lapin (all of the rabbit)
Saga
Multi-course fine dining set atop a historic skyscraper with panoramic outdoor terraces.
Signature: Seasonal multi-course tasting menu
Gramercy Tavern
Warm, rustic-refined American dining that pioneered the farm-to-table movement in the city.
Signature: Smoked trout with cipollini onions
Jean-Georges
Refined French-Asian fusion served in a minimalist, light-filled dining room near Central Park.
Signature: Egg Caviar
Wah Fung No. 1 Fast Food
Incredible value for exceptionally tender, sweet Cantonese roast meats.
Signature: Roast pork (char siu) over cabbage and rice
Mamoun's Falafel
Serving high-quality, inexpensive Middle Eastern street food since 1971.
Signature: Falafel sandwich with hot sauce
Shu Jiao Fu Zhou
No-frills counter specializing in thin-skinned Fuzhou-style dumplings.
Signature: Pork and chive dumplings
Los Tacos No. 1
Exceptional, fresh-pressed corn tortilla tacos served at high-speed standing counters.
Signature: Adobada (marinated pork) quesadilla
Xi'an Famous Foods
Spicy, hand-ripped noodles showcasing the bold flavors of Western China.
Signature: Spicy cumin lamb hand-ripped noodles
Super Taste
Subterranean noodle shop famous for its rich broths and hand-pulled noodles.
Signature: Pork bone hand-pulled noodle soup
Rowdy Rooster
Indian spiced fried chicken served with varying levels of intense heat.
Signature: Big Rowdy chicken sandwich
Birria Landia
A legendary food truck serving incredibly rich, slow-cooked beef birria.
Signature: Birria tacos with consommé for dipping
Margon
A bustling, historic lunch counter serving hearty Cuban classics near Times Square.
Signature: Cuban sandwich with roast pork and pickles
Dirt Candy
Chef Amanda Cohen's creative, vegetable-forward tasting menus that avoid meat substitutes.
Signature: Portobello mousse
Spicy Moon
Vibrant, entirely vegan Szechuan dining that doesn't compromise on traditional heat.
Signature: Vegan dan dan noodles
abcV
Jean-Georges Vongerichten's chic, airy space serving globally inspired plant-based dishes.
Signature: Whole roasted cauliflower with tahini
Bunna Cafe
Lively Ethiopian restaurant serving entirely vegan platters on sourdough injera.
Signature: Feast platter for two
Planta Queen
Stylish dining room serving creative, Asian-inspired plant-based dishes and sushi.
Signature: Crispy rice with ahi watermelon
Modern Love
Indulgent, vegan comfort food served in a relaxed, modern diner setting.
Signature: Mac & Shews with cashew cheese
Hangawi
A serene, shoes-off sanctuary serving traditional Korean vegetarian temple food.
Signature: Stone bowl bibimbap
Coletta
Elegant Italian dining featuring completely plant-based pizzas and pastas.
Signature: Vegan brick-oven pizzas
After dark
Nightlife
House of Yes
A theatrical, costume-heavy venue focusing on self-expression, aerialists, and house music.
Nowadays
A community-focused indoor/outdoor space with a custom analog sound system and a leafy backyard.
Bossa Nova Civic Club
An intimate, subterranean-feeling hub for the local underground techno and house scene.
Good Room
Built by music lovers for music lovers, featuring vinyl-focused DJs and a separate ambient room.
The Brooklyn Mirage
A massive, open-air sanctuary with a colossal LED screen and top-tier global EDM DJs.
Le Bain
A penthouse discotheque atop The Standard hotel with a plunge pool and sweeping Hudson River views.
Basement
A dark, underground concrete cavern beneath the Knockdown Center dedicated to uncompromising techno.
Public Records
An audiophile-focused venue with a vegan cafe, a record shop, and a custom-built sound room.
Marquee New York
A classic Manhattan mega-club with high-end bottle service, dramatic lighting, and commercial dance music.
The Dead Rabbit
A multi-story venue combining a traditional Irish pub with an award-winning cocktail parlor.
Attaboy
An intimate, sign-free speakeasy where bartenders create bespoke drinks based on your preferences.
Dante
A historic 1915 cafe celebrated for its modern interpretations of Italian aperitivo culture.
Westlight
A 22nd-floor rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the Manhattan skyline and creative cocktails.
Bemelmans Bar
Located inside the Carlyle Hotel, featuring original murals by Ludwig Bemelmans and live piano music.
Katana Kitten
A playful Japanese-American bar serving exceptional highballs and creative bar snacks.
Double Chicken Please
Famous for its innovative 'coop' room serving cocktails inspired by classic food dishes.
Overstory
A high-altitude cocktail lounge on the 64th floor with a wrap-around outdoor terrace.
McSorley's Old Ale House
The city's oldest continuously operating saloon, serving only light or dark ale on sawdust floors.
Village Vanguard
The historic basement wedge-shaped room that has hosted every major figure in jazz history since 1935.
Blue Note Jazz Club
One of the world's most famous jazz venues, hosting premier global talent in an intimate room.
Bowery Ballroom
A historic 1929 theater widely considered to have the best acoustics and sightlines for indie rock.
Smalls Jazz Club
A tight, subterranean space famous for late-night jam sessions and rising jazz stars.
Brooklyn Steel
A converted industrial warehouse hosting mid-sized indie, electronic, and pop acts.
Baby's All Right
A trendsetting venue hosting emerging indie bands, complete with a lively front bar and restaurant.
The Stone
An experimental, avant-garde listening room curated by musician John Zorn.
Terra Blues
A second-floor blues lounge hosting local and national blues artists for over three decades.
Irving Plaza
A historic ballroom hosting a diverse range of rock, pop, and hip-hop acts.
Art & history
Culture
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
A monumental collection spanning 5,000 years of global art history, from Egyptian temples to modern paintings.
Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
The world's premier collection of modern and contemporary masterpieces, including works by Van Gogh and Picasso.
Whitney Museum of American Art
A striking Renzo Piano-designed building dedicated to 20th and 21st-century American art.
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
Frank Lloyd Wright's iconic spiral ramp architecture is as much of a draw as the modern art collection.
American Museum of Natural History
Famous for its massive dinosaur halls, the blue whale model, and the state-of-the-art Hayden Planetarium.
Brooklyn Museum
A grand Beaux-Arts building housing a massive collection, particularly strong in Egyptian and feminist art.
Tenement Museum
Immersive, guided-only tours of preserved historic apartments that tell the real stories of immigrant families.
The Frick Collection
An exceptional collection of Old Master paintings displayed in a grand Gilded Age mansion.
The Morgan Library & Museum
The majestic private library of financier J. Pierpont Morgan, filled with rare manuscripts and books.
Empire State Building
The definitive Art Deco skyscraper, offering classic open-air views of the entire metropolitan area.
Statue of Liberty & Ellis Island
The historic gateway for millions of immigrants, offering deep historical context and harbor views.
Brooklyn Bridge
An engineering marvel of the 19th century with a dedicated elevated pedestrian walkway.
Grand Central Terminal
A Beaux-Arts masterpiece featuring a famous celestial ceiling and the Whispering Gallery.
The High Line
An elevated public park built on a historic, abandoned freight rail line above the streets.
Chrysler Building
Widely considered the pinnacle of Art Deco skyscraper design, with its distinctive terraced crown.
Flatiron Building
The iconic, triangular steel-framed pioneer skyscraper at the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Broadway.
St. Patrick's Cathedral
A striking Neo-Gothic cathedral that provides a dramatic architectural contrast to surrounding modern towers.
The Oculus
Santiago Calatrava's dramatic, white-ribbed transit hub designed to resemble a bird in flight.
David Zwirner
A powerhouse gallery representing some of the most influential contemporary artists in massive, clean spaces.
Gagosian
Massive, museum-scale spaces hosting exhibitions by major modern and contemporary figures.
Pace Gallery
A multi-story flagship gallery showcasing global contemporary icons and digital art installations.
Hauser & Wirth
Dynamic exhibitions paired with a rooftop garden, an art bookstore, and a community-focused ethos.
The Hole
A vibrant gallery focusing on emerging contemporary art, street art, and highly thematic group shows.
Gladstone Gallery
Thought-provoking conceptual and installation art from highly established international artists.
Pioneer Works
An interdisciplinary arts center in a massive brick warehouse, hosting exhibitions, residencies, and music.
White Columns
New York's oldest alternative non-profit art space, dedicated to presenting work by underrepresented artists.
Dia Chelsea
Long-term, site-specific installations by minimalist and conceptual masters in a quiet, industrial setting.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
April to June brings mild temperatures and blooming parks, though rain is frequent. The city is highly walkable during these months before the summer humidity sets in.
Summer
July and August are hot and humid, with asphalt radiating heat. Many locals leave on weekends, leaving the city quieter, though tourist crowds remain thick around major landmarks.
Autumn
September to November is widely considered the prime time to visit. The air is crisp, fall foliage peaks in Central Park, and the cultural season launches with major gallery openings.
Winter
December is crowded and expensive due to holiday displays. January and February are cold and windy, but offer the lowest hotel rates and the quietest museums of the year.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
From JFK, take the AirTrain to the subway (A or E lines) or the Long Island Rail Road (LIRR) for a faster connection to Penn Station. From LaGuardia, use the M60-SBS bus to connect to Upper Manhattan subways, or take a yellow taxi. From Newark, take the AirTrain to NJ Transit trains bound for Penn Station.
Public transit
The subway system runs 24/7 and is the most efficient way to travel. It is supplemented by an extensive bus network and the NYC Ferry system, which connects waterfront neighborhoods along the East River.
Passes & tickets
The OMNY contactless payment system automatically caps fares at a weekly rate (€€) after a set number of rides, making physical transit passes largely obsolete.
On foot
Extremely high. The grid system north of 14th Street makes navigation straightforward, though pedestrian traffic can be dense in commercial corridors.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Stand to the right on escalators so others can pass on the left.
- Do not block subway doors; let passengers exit the train completely before boarding.
- Do not engage with costumed characters or street performers unless you intend to tip them.
- Always tip service staff; it is a vital part of their income.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Download the Citymapper app for the most accurate, real-time subway routing and service changes.
- Avoid empty subway cars; they are usually empty for a reason, such as a broken air conditioner or a strong odor.
- Never buy Statue of Liberty tickets from street scalpers near Battery Park; only buy from the official vendor, Statue City Cruises.
- Walk with purpose; locals will get frustrated if you stop to look at your phone in the middle of a busy sidewalk.
- Enter major museums on weekdays during early morning hours to avoid school groups and heavy weekend crowds.
- Carry a reusable water bottle; public drinking fountains are common in major parks and transit hubs.
- Book popular restaurants exactly 30 days in advance when reservation windows open on Resy or OpenTable.
Before you go
New York FAQs
Is the subway safe at night?
Yes, the subway is generally safe 24/7, but stick to populated cars and avoid empty platforms late at night.
How far in advance should I book Broadway tickets?
Book several weeks ahead for popular shows, or use the TKTS booth in Times Square on the day of the performance for discounts.
Do I really need to tip 20%?
Yes, tipping 18-20% is standard and expected for table service, bar service, and taxi rides.
Can I hail a yellow cab anywhere?
Yes, if the rooftop light is illuminated, the cab is available. Use rideshare apps for outer boroughs where yellow cabs are scarce.
Is Central Park safe after dark?
It is best to avoid the park after 9:00 PM when it becomes poorly lit and sparsely populated.
How do I pay for the subway?
Use the OMNY system by tapping your contactless credit card, debit card, or phone at the turnstile.